Alistair Owens concludes his educational train journey from Hamilton in the North island to Christchurch in the South Island. A journey passing volcanic plateau, mountains, gorges and farmland Marlborough vineyards and the coast.
The taxi arrived at 7:00 am. It was a hybrid car and drove downhill all the way to the station during which time it was charging the battery. I considered negotiating the fee as it had a negative cost to the cab company. The driver at 6 foot 8 inches was suitably nonplussed but liked my style! I abandoned the cause.
So here I was at Wellington station in New Zealand to complete my educational train journey to Christchurch. Taking in the sights of geography, geology and farming it was proving to be fun and highly rewarding. But now we needed to get to the South Island. A slight problem; there is a fair chunk of water in the way. The rendezvous at the station was arranged to transport everyone to the ferry about a mile away. The bus arrived tugging a trailer. This I learned is a national pastime in NZ., everyone tugs a trailer. It matters little if there is anything in it. The aspiring go for twin axles as they bounce and clatter more effectively when empty.
My fellow travellers were predominately backpackers and two middle aged couples who were amazed I had found a hotel in the middle of the sevens competition. The bus driver opened the trailer door stood back against the wall beckoning the assembled travellers to load their own baggage. Avoiding the potential of back injury to the driver this proved an amazing sight. 30 urgent backpackers randomly cast a multitude of different sized packs into the trailer in best buggers-muddle fashion. Filled with about a third of the optimum capacity the driver leapt several times on the trailer door to close it before giving up. Four of us remained on the pavement with unloaded cases. The driver nodded to the three external hooks on the trailer. I graciously nodded to my fellow traveller and took a step back. Three more packs were slung on the hooks in the hope they would remain so placed for the trip. I was left alone. Eye contact with the driver meant one of us had to surrender. He had options I did not. “You had better shove that case inside the bus.†Result.
Guaranteed by the strategic positioning of me and the case, being last on meant first off. No prisoners in this scenario. We arrived at the ferry terminal I leapt off to hit the check in queue. Confusion; I had apparently sailed on the day, two months ago, when I booked the ferry ticket. More eye contact, a pause, a smile, the realisation I did not intend to move, some frantic key board activity and bingo a boarding card. I turned to move out of the queue and spotted the predictable mayhem that had beset my fellow passengers in the bus. Thirty people attempting to disentangle straps and handles of backpacks is not a pretty sight. The driver lent against the wall smoking a cigarette; I could see his point.
The ferry “Kaitaki†was an old friend. I sailed on her many years ago when she was known as the “Pride of Cherbourg†sailing twixt Portsmouth and France. The welded letters of the original name merely painted over. The trip was smooth and apart from my backpacker friends the ferry full of borne again aging Harley Davison owners that haunt the roads. A long awaited breakfast from a choice limited to the full Kiwi breakfast and its compatriot the half Kiwi breakfast. The addition of black pudding and $3 marking the difference everyone plumbed for the half option. There is one constant throughout the world. Long before MacDonald’s the full breakfast was truly global. The recipe is constant merely incorporating the locality. English, Welsh, Scottish, Australian and NZ full breakfasts are identical.
Spectacular scenery greets the travellers arrival at Picton in the North Island. We disembarked. I had an hour before we set off by the Trans Coastal train to Christchurch. Time to visit a marvellous super loo. It talked to me throughout the visit, played music, told me that it would flush automatically when I washed my hands, ejected soap, turned the wash basin tap on and then the dryer. At the end it thanked me for using the super loo. I thanked it for at leaving me the dignity to wipe my own backside and we departed lasting friends.
The train was very full the booking clerk advised. I can sit you opposite a 14 year old facing backwards would that be OK? Presumably a housetrained 14 year old it was fine by me. Five minutes the train manager called me forward. Look you are sitting opposite a 14 year old – we will do our utmost to move you. And he did, with 5 minutes to spare I was relocated on the opposite side of the very full train, phew! At precisely one o’clock we left. In the carriage was a 14 year old young lady who sat demurely reading a book for the entire journey and myself. The other 40 seats remained vacant. I suppose its a matter of opinion what full means.
We ploughed on through more stunning scenery and vine yards. On this coastal sector there are amazing views of seal colonies, along with more bridges and tunnels. The viaducts were lower and much longer as they traversed many braided rivers. Basically wide glacial fed winter rivers that shrink to a series of small channels in summer. We stopped in the middle of nowhere at a halt. A car was waiting- the only sign of life for miles. Here my fellow traveller departed, the renegade 14 year old was met by family, and off we went thundering on through the country at a blistering 40 kph. Apart from pausing to pass a cup of coffee and bun to a train driver waiting to pass in the opposite direction on this single track the journey to Christchurch the principal city of the South Island passed all too quickly. The air conditioning worked in all carriages provided you kept the blinds down on the sunny side. It’s a great trip, very educational and highly recommended.
Alistair Owens
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